Bernard Bouvier now has 30 hectares under vine in and around Gevrey, Fixin and Marsannay – where he is president of the local syndicate. In 2006, he moved to, and recently extended, state-of-the-art cellars just north of Gevrey and the quality of his wines is now absolute top division and are regularly championed by Bourgogne Aujourd’hui.

Vines average 50 years old – with some dating back to 1922. Bernard believes in winter ploughing and some grass cover during the growing season. Yields are kept low by severe pruning and green harvesting is rarely necessary thereafter. Since 2009, the domaine has been entirely run on organic principles, but he no longer wishes to be certified as such. “Respect for microbial life, auxiliary fauna and the quality of selection massale are the pillars of our philosophy”.

Bernard seeks perfect ripeness, but prizes freshness, so does not pick too late. There is now about 50% whole bunch inclusion in his red wines. Fermentations are extremely gentle and more of an “infusion” with very limited pigeage or remontage. The wines are matured for between 12 and 18 months in a combination of barriques, demi-muids and concrete eggs, then a further 6 months in stainless steel tanks, prior to being bottled with judicious, minimal additions of SO2.